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Friday, February 22, 2013

Dish of the week: Brisket flautas

 Dish of the week: Brisket flautas


Brisket flautas at El Tiempo Cantina on Navigation (shrimp a la carte). Photo by Alison Cook

Brisket flautas at El Tiempo Cantina on Navigation (shrimp a la carte)

It had to happen. The way Houstonians mix and match elements of our disparate cooking styles, sooner or later somebody was going to put shredded and chile-peppered brisket inside a flauta. And it's a genius idea, as I discovered when I visited the new El Tiempo on Navigation Blvd. last week.

I was eager to check out the venue in which the Laurenzo family will be throwing down right next door to Ninfa's on Navigation, the restaurant where matriarch Ninfa Laurenzo launched the tacos al carbon (and eventually fajitas) craze, starting back in the 1970s. The Laurenzos sold their interest in Ninfa's long ago, but now they're back in the neighborhood with a vast palace of tile and stucco and papel picado, studded with huge, muscular horse sculptures and bright traceries of aqua wrought iron.

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