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Saturday, August 2, 2014

Pax Americana opens tomorrow on Montrose

Pax Americana opens tomorrow on Montrose



Pax Americana, the new restaurant from co-chefs Adam Dorris and Plinio Sandalio, opens for business Saturday at 5 p.m.

Last night the restaurant hosted a packed friends-and-family dress rehearsal that gave diners a glimpse of the opening menu, as well as a chance to check out the revamped space that once housed Boulevard Bistro and Thai Sticks.

The tightly edited opening menu — which will change frequently once the place gets rolling — lists 16 dishes that range in price from $10 to $19. Among the early standouts was a smoked “Nine-spice” brisket rubbed with an Asian-inflected mix that ran from pink peppercorns to star anise to coriander and beyond. The soft, highly aromatic shreds of beef played against calm roasted potatoes cold-smoked in their jackets and a final sharp tuffet of herbed salad that had an bracing Thai effect.  Tiny green chiles, slivered scallion, peppery flat parsley leaves and cilantro all set off the richness of the brisket. It was a bold yet deftly balanced taste of what might be to come at this brand new venture.

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