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Tuesday, May 6, 2014

Houston Tex-Mex and Mexican



Houston loves its Tex-Mex. They flock to places where the chips and salsa are unlimited, the margaritas are strong and the tortillas arrive warm. Increasingly, they’re also embracing restaurants that serve more traditional Mexican fare. And, yes, the cuisines are distinct. Here are some recommended restaurants for both categories.

El Real
Cuisine: Tex-Mex
This temple of Tex-Mex was built by Bryan Caswell and Bill Floyd — creators of Reef and Little Bigs — in collaboration with cookbook author Robb Walsh. Housed in the restored Tower Theater, the restaurant serves vintage fare, such as puffy tacos and cheese enchiladas topped with chili gravy. 1201 Westheimer, 713-524-1201, elrealtexmex.com.

El Tiempo CantinaCuisine: Tex-Mex
Here’s the thing: the chow at El Tiempo is outstanding — deliciously charred fajitas, pillowy flour tacos, amazing salsa. The margaritas are potent and tasty, which is a rare combination. But it’s expensive. Like, 24 bucks for a half-pound of fajitas expensive. Find the nearest location at eltiempocantina.com.

Molina’s CantinaCuisine: Tex-Mex
In the vast salsa sea of Tex-Mex joints in Houston, Molina’s gets bonus points for authenticity (you gotta try the chili) and atmosphere (the palapa-covered patio is the perfect place to sip margaritas.) And speaking of salsa, you’ll be presented with two reds. Insiders know to ask for the green. (You’re welcome.) 4720 Washington, 713-862-0013; 7901 Westheimer, 713-782-0861, molinasrestaurants.com.

The Original Ninfa’s on NavigationCuisine: Tex-Mex
As the name implies, this is where it all started. If you believe the legend, Mama Ninfa was (is) the patron saint of Tex-Mex. In her tiny kitchen, she cranked out the world’s first fajitas. Greatly expanded in recent years to include a real parking lot and large patio deck, the restaurant still manages to draw hordes who wait patiently for tables. 2704 Navigation, 713-228-1175, ninfas.com.

Soto’s CantinaCuisine: Tex-Mex
This family-owned Tex-Mex spot on the north side features a cheerful dining room, well-prepared classics, such as chiles rellenos, pork tamales in chili gravy and shrimp in a rich chipotle sauce. 10609 Grant, 281-955-5667, sotoscantina.com.

Spanish VillageCuisine: Tex-Mex
It’s simple Tex-Mex fare — enchiladas, fajitas and guacamole — served in a colorful and festive setting for more than 50 years. More than a few Houstonians admit their love of Spanish Village is fanned by the house margarita. The slushy margaritas are tart, lively and, yes, intoxicating. 4720 Almeda, 713-523-2861,spanishvillagerestaurant.com.

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