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Saturday, May 24, 2014

Houston's top picks for barbecue

You simply cannot visit Texas and not try the barbecue. Lucky for you, Houston has really stepped up its game in recent years. After years of being overshadowed by Hill Country power smokers like Franklin, Mueller and Snow’s, Houston’s pitmasters are serving up notable briskets, ribs and sausage. Here are some barbecue joints we recommend.


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The Brisket House: This Galleria-area barbecue joint is owned by pitmaster Wayne Kammerl, who pays tribute to his alma mater with the “Aggie Special.” It’s your pick of meats served on butcher paper along with a chunk of cheddar cheese, a whole pickle, half an onion and bread. And, yes, it’s delicious. 5775 Woodway, 281-888-0331,thebriskethouse.com.


CorkScrew BBQ: This joint (actually it’s a mobile kitchen with covered seating) serves some of the best brisket in the state. The smoked turkey and pulled pork are solid, too. Go early as pitmaster Will Buckman runs out of barbecue before 4 p.m. most days. 24930 Budde, Spring, 281-330-2178, corkscrewbbq.com.


Gatlin’s BBQ: This small, family-run Heights spot sometimes has a hard time keeping up with demand for its tender brisket. Be patient. It’s worth the wait. 1221 W. 19th, 281-804-4555, gatlinsbbq.com.


Goode Co. BBQ: Jim Goode’s sliced brisket sandwich on house-made jalapeño-cheese bread is a modern barbecue classic. Just about everything else in this Texabilia-crammed neo-joint upholds the state’s honor, too: Czech sausage, duck, turkey and decadent pecan pie. (Bought whole, this pie makes one of Houston’s best souvenirs.) 5109 Kirby, 713-522-2530; 8911I-10 E., 713 464-1901, goodecompany.com.


Fainmous BBQ: Knoxville-born Jamie Fain is eager to school Texans in Tennessee-style barbecue. His pulled pork with house-made slaw is killer. 10400 S. Post Oak, 713-728-9663, fainmousque.com.


Killen’s Barbecue: Known for his eponymous steakhouse, Le Cordon Bleu-trained Ronnie Killen began his barbecue business in earnest about 18 months ago. It didn’t take him long to find the perfect balance of smoke in his fatty brisket and monster ribs. Long lines aren’t unusual at this Pearland restaurant that is housed in a former school cafeteria. Don’t miss the creamed corn. 3613 E. Broadway, Pearland, 281-485-2272, killensbarbecue.com.


Lenox Barbecue & Catering: Pitmaster Erick Mrok took over this barbecue joint 16 years ago, but his pits have been turning out terrific brisket since 1946. It’s take-out (and delivery) only these days, and you have to enter through the kitchen, but that doesn’t deter fans. Try the jalapeño/cheese links and charro beans. 5420 Harrisburg, 713-926-2649,lenoxbbqcatering.com.






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